Volcanic Clay Bar

A heavy-grade clay bar made for paint. It lifts iron fallout, dust, overspray and tree sap off the surface, and it's the prep step before polishing or coating. On PPF and color-change wrap, use the fine-grade bar instead.

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Product description

After washing, the paint still feels rough and gritty, with little black specks you can't pick off. That's iron fallout, industrial dust, overspray and tree sap stuck in the paint, and car wash soap won't remove it. This is the heavy-grade clay bar made for paint. Glide it lightly in circles with the Clay Lubricant to lift those particles off. It's the prep step before polishing or coating. On PPF, color-change wrap and wrapped panels, use the fine-grade bar instead. Don't use the heavy-grade bar there.

Specs

What's included: Single piece (also available as a full bar)
Dilution ratio: Not applicable (this is a solid clay bar, use it with the clay lubricant)
Compatible surfaces: Car paint (this is the heavy-grade bar)
Not for use on: PPF, color-change wrap and wrapped panels (use the fine-grade bar instead)
Pads to pair with: Clay Lubricant (diluted no weaker than 1:10)

How to use it

Dilute the clay lubricant first, no weaker than 1:10, and spray it evenly over the paint you're cleaning. Spray the clay too.
Take about 30g of clay each time, flatten it into a disc in your palm, and wipe gently in circles. Don't press down hard.
Re-spray the lubricant as you go. The moment the surface dries, spray more. Never work it dry.
When you're done, rinse the paint clean with water.
Rinse the clay clean after use and you can reuse it. If it drops on the ground, throw it out. Don't put it back on the car.

Things to know

Will clay scratch the paint? Yes, if there isn't enough lubricant. The clay and the lubricant are a set, don't use the clay dry on its own.
"Plain water is fine" is wrong. Water's lubricating film is too thin, and once the clay picks up iron particles, it's like dragging sandpaper across the paint.
Never work it dry. Spray more lubricant the moment the surface dries.
Don't dilute the lubricant weaker than 1:10. Go weaker and you have no lubrication at all.
Once the clay hits the ground, it can't go back on the car. Picking it up and carrying on just presses grit from the ground into the paint.
The heavy-grade and fine-grade bars aren't interchangeable: the heavy-grade bar is for paint only. Always use the fine-grade bar on PPF, color-change wrap and wrapped panels.
We recommend avoiding direct sun and the hottest part of the day when you work. The lubricant dries fast, and you can end up working the clay dry before you get another spray on.
We don't have test data we can cite on whether you need to polish afterward. If you need that, message us on WhatsApp first, or test it on a small hidden area first.
This product doesn't come with an ingredient list or a safety data sheet (SDS). We recommend wearing gloves and working in a ventilated area.
Store in a cool, dry place, out of direct sunlight and heat, and out of reach of children and pets.

FAQ

No. Clay that's hit the ground picks up grit, and using it after that will scratch the paint badly. This is the main risk with clay bars. Throw it out and use a fresh piece. Don't try to save it.

We recommend every six months. If you drive a lot of highway miles or near factories, shorten that to every 3 months. The darker an iron remover turns on your paint, the more it needs clay's physical cleaning on top.

Very normal, that's exactly what clay does. Once all the embedded contamination is gone, the paint gets that glass-smooth feel, and that's when a coating goes on best.

Application guide

Complete guide to choosing polishing pads